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Below the belt with Kit Blake’s AW20 collection
The trousers everyone’s talking about this autumn/winter
Words The Rake
MikeDrew-LOTW-19
Kit Blake is founded on the principle of change, and the tailoring industry’s need for it. Seldom is there the space for super-structured, starch-collared, stiff-shouldered construction these days – the world, our lifestyles, our work and our uniforms are changing. In any industry steeped in tradition, there’s a danger it’ll get left behind, holding onto codes and rules that no longer fit into modern lexicon, which is why creative visions like Chris Modoo’s, co-founder of Kit Blake, feel revolutionary.
As an integral part of the Savile Row scene for many years, Modoo knows British tailoring – the good, the bad and the ugly. And he decided that for all the effort made to adapt and adopt spalla camicia shoulders, deconstructed jackets and barchetta chest pockets, these details were focused disproportionately on the top half: it was all talk and not enough trouser. So, he took things into his own hands.
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Though now it has something of a cult following, the Aleksandar trouser was one of Kit Blake’s debut designs. Named after Modoo’s close friend, Rake alumni and director of HandCut studio Aleks Cvetkovic, the trousers have received a seasonal update for autumn/winter 2020. Having previously collaborated with Dugdale Brothers and Loro Piana and released gorgeous summer editions in gabardine and seersucker, the Aleksandar is now available in various versatile shades of salt-and-pepper brown and grey, cut in bolts of Vitale Barberis Canonico’s super-soft wool and flannel. The design maintains its original integrity with wide legs, generous turn ups, four deep, forward-facing pleats and signature side adjusters. Just in time for the season of goodwill and great portions, there’s also a more leisurely draw-string option in a super 120s worsted flannel which coolly disregards the idea that drawstrings should be reserved for loungewear (although lounge away, should you wish – VBC’s resilient fabric can take it).
Furthermore, Kit Blake has launched a new style, the ‘Connery’, named after silver screen style icon and actor Sean Connery, and available exclusively on The Rake. Considerably slimmer than Aleks’ almost palazzo-style pants, the Connery is cut in a sporty twill design in both VBC’s English khaki all-wool worsted – it pairs well with a textured top half (tweed, Fair Isle, vintage suede) – and a tropical wool that drapes beautifully yet holds a strong crease. The medium rise gives way to unfinished hems that mean discerning customers can have them taken up at their discretion, and distinctive drop-cross pockets are marks of high-quality craftsmanship. Shop the full Kit Blake collection.
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chris modoo, Kit Blake, trousers
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