Style
10 of the Best Autumn Jackets
As autumn reigns down on the style calendar, The Rake takes a look at the key jackets for the season ahead.
Words Charlie Thomas
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Valstar Valstarino A1 Jacket in Blue Suede
Some of the most interesting garments in today’s menswear landscape are those based on classic, staple designs, yet are tweaked and updated for the 21st century consumer. Take Valstar’s Valstarino jacket for example, which is based on the A1 flight jacket that was first introduced to the US Air Corps in the 1920s. A design over 90 years old, the A1 was traditionally made from cape sheep leather and was intended to keep pilots warm in open-air cockpits. Recognising that their target audience isn’t about to jet off to war however, Valstar has updated their jacket, crafting it from plush goat suede, simplifying the twin-buttoned flap pockets and trimming down the silhouette, ensuring it can tackle a variety of dress codes. What’s more, its body and tapered sleeves are filled with goose down, which is far and away the most effective and lightweight heat insulator. This is the jacket the A1 should have always been. £995.00, rake.webdezign.uk.
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3sixteen BDU Shirt in Stone Ripstop
From one military era to another. NYC firm 3sixteen took inspiration from US Army Battle Dress Uniforms (BDUs) - specifically the tropical jungle jacket utilised during the Vietnam War - with their take on the upper half of the standard-issue ensemble. Fitting in with their minimal urban aesthetic, 3sixteen has removed the shoulder epaulettes that would be found on original jackets, and streamlined the four front bellows pockets, making them slightly smaller and curving the edges of the pocket flaps. $240.00, www.3sixteen.com.
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Anderson & Sheppard Travel Jacket in Green Cotton Drill
Fit for purpose, this jacket is the Mr Muscle of the outerwear world. It’s a do-anything, go-anywhere piece that, thanks to it featuring a total of 13 pockets, is ideal for travel. Half-safari, half-field jacket, it’s been engineered by the fine craftspeople at Anderson & Sheppard, the Savile Row tailoring house most famous for their drape suits worn by the likes of Fred Astaire. This jacket takes all of their tailoring nous and applies it in a purely functional sense however; its multiple pockets, utilitarian design and hardy cotton drill fabric are ideal for the man on the move. It’s a versatile piece and will wear just as well with tailored trousers or with equally robust denim jeans.
£1,750.00, rake.webdezign.uk.
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Knickerbocker Mfg. Co. Campus Jacket in Tobacco Cotton Canvas
Clean and refined, this jacket by New York-based Knickerbocker Mfg. Co. is a cross between a track and a mechanic’s jacket, yet it’s sharper than both. This is thanks to its unfussy design, beautiful 10oz cotton duck canvas fabric, antique brass snap buttons and Japanese cotton corduroy collar, that all combine to ensure it becomes more than the sum of its parts. Sitting just below the waist, it’s lined with brushed striped cotton and is constructed on a 1950s needle loom, which’ll no doubt please the purists out there. $315.00, www.knickerbockermfg.co.
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AMI Parka in Black Cotton
A parka with interesting proportions. Slightly oversized and with four massive front flap pockets, this AMI design plays on the classic outerwear design. It’s made from a soft yet entirely waterproof black cotton gabardine that imbues a slight formality thanks to the fabric’s associations with the more classic raglan macintosh style. Although boxy through the middle, the coat features a drawstring waist, meaning the silhouette can be altered to your desired shape. £530.00, www.amiparis.com.
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Chapal A1 Jacket in Tan Suede
Chapal’s take on the A1 is more traditional (and far) more expensive than Valstar’s. It’s cut slightly wider through the body and features a large knitted hem and cuffs, which are true to early designs. The rich tan suede will take on an enviable patina the more it’s worn and the angled flap pockets offer plenty of storage. £2,765.00, rake.webdezign.uk.
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The Real McCoy’s Athletic Jacket in Navy Wool
College jackets have been replicated far and wide, yet few rival that of The Real McCoy’s. Reproduction specialists, The Real McCoy’s are famed for producing classic menswear garments based on period designs, yet are more desirable thanks to improved construction and better fabrics. This design would have been worn by college athletes during the 1930s, yet it’s just as relevant today. Rendered in navy wool, and featuring wool cuffs, waistband and button-down front, it’s ideal thrown over a grey marl T-shirt and slim black jeans. £635.00, www.realmccoyslondon.com.
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Universal Works Battle Jacket in Olive Wool
Another crossover piece, this Battle jacket is part-Harrington, part-bomber, part-golfing jacket. It boasts a two-way zip and adjustable tabs at the hem so it can be worn in a number of ways, and its subtle olive green colour means it’s endlessly versatile. Wear with indigo denim jeans and rubber-soled work boots for a rugged off-duty autumn look.
£215.00, www.universalworks.co.uk
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Ermenegildo Zegna Bomber Jacket in Blue Wool/Silk
Zegna’s take on the classic MA-1 bomber jacket strips it back to the bare essentials. With a slimmer silhouette, the removal of the upper arm zip pocket and making use of a wool/silk blend fabric usually reserved for fine tailoring, it’s a smart take on the style, which was first introduced in 1958 at the dawn of the military Jet Age.
£1,790.00, www.zegna.co.uk.
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Norwegian Rain Raincoat in Recycled Polyester
The single-breasted raincoat is a staple menswear garment that’s been on the scene for the best part of a century. Norwegian Rain has taken the classic and modernised it, creating a highly contemporary coat that’s perfect for storm dodging. With its hidden fly front, simple waist belt, large peaked hood and reliably waterproof recycled fabric, it’ll be the first thing you grab on dark, damp mornings. Wear over 9-5 tailoring or dress down on the weekend with slim black jeans and crisp white trainers. £700.00, rake.webdezign.uk.
Wear it with…
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Autumn Jackets, Layering, Lightweight Jackets, suede, Transitional, Valstar
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