A Label of Love: The Design Edit

It has been said that British tailoring – the structure, the heroic shape and the inevitable respect it commands – comes from its military roots. There is a reason we can’t get enough of soldierly sartorialism, because it always has been – and always will be – quite simply, incredibly cool. Schott has been at the front line of the movement towards vintage and ‘antique’ military wear for some time, honing its levels of authenticity to a fine art. This heavy-duty bomber jacket was originally designed for American Naval Aviators, who made a point of embellishing their own jackets with patches, badges and paint. The detachable fur collar, fitted ribbed waist and sleeve-cuffs balance the generous shape of the torso and chunky pockets, and at the same time imitate the precise silhouette of those jackets that fighter pilots once wore. These features (although today they make one feel like a beautiful badass) were in fact for function rather than fashion, keeping the elements out and the essentials in. Not one to miss a trick, Schott’s jacket even includes an action back, with a generous allowance for movement – perfect for driving (be it helicopter or convertible) and defending oneself against all the women that will no doubt throw themselves in your path whilst you’re wearing it. $750.00, www.schottnyc.com.

The way the world is going, alligators shall soon be extinct, so I urge you to be one of the sensible few who will take full advantage of their majestic beauty while you can. By which, of course, I mean investing in the finest artisanal leather goods crafted from fine alligator skin. Carmina’s genuine alligator skin Chelsea boots are treated to some of the world’s most specialised hand dying processes, with only the most skilled craftsman responsible for their transformation. The polished black exotic skin is elegant yet wearable, offering a contemporary piece of footwear design with a luxurious finish. Immaculate stitching by Carmina’s artisans, oak-tanned Rendembach soles in exceptional hardened leather and the house’s signature Inca last combine to form a truly exquisite pair of Chelsea boots, classic style of which is completely and utterly elevated from a casual classic to a rakish modern essential. €3,900.00, www.carminashoemaker.com.

There’s something about Rubinacci’s silk scarves that we just can’t get enough of; consider their regal Neapolitan designs, artisanal printing techniques, vibrant colours and sumptuously soft fibres and you start to get the picture. Now, you can double up on required your dose of iconic Rubinacci design by having your latest commission lined expertly with two beautiful scarves of your choice, a second skin that helps your new bespoke coat to slip on with ease. Even better is the satisfaction of knowing no one else’s lining has a name like ‘Victory Blue’ or ‘Samurai’. One of Rubinacci’s most loyal customers is reported to have over 20 of the same suits, all with different linings. The process is meticulous and naturally, the scarves are felled into each coat entirely by hand, for results that are more than worth the wait and undeniably impressive. Price on request, visit www.marianorubinacci.net to find your nearest tailor.

In China, the art of storytelling is a treasured tradition, passed from generation to generation. Patinova’s products reflect this folklore, recreating symbols from ancient Chinese culture in miniature, allowing for their individuality to do all the talking. These sterling silver cufflinks represent the Southern Lion, instantly recognizable for his role in traditional Chinese dance costume at festivals and celebrations, he symbolises life, energy and youth, courage and friendship. But aside from being a rather touching reminder of the important things in life, the detail and design is something to behold; a miniscule hinge allows the mouth to open and close, and the intricate engravings make for a piece of masculine jewellery with real depth. It is also thought that the lions scare away bad spirits and attract good fortune, so what more could one want beneath the sleeve of a serious bespoke business suit? $230.00, www.thearmoury.com.

Kilgour has always pushed the boundaries of British tailoring to the cutting edge of contemporary design; and in the process has become the name that gentlemen think of when they want a sleek silhouette and remarkable modern aesthetic. The house’s Autumn/Winter 16 collection echoes the minimalistic elegance of their boutique-like store on Savile Row, with an array of temptations to choose from. Drawing on the concept of asymmetry, this luxurious wool jacket in a subtle shade of bronze features Freelance Creative Director Carlo Brandelli’s signature slim notch-less lapels but with an incomparably post-modern twist. Staying true to their glamourous heritage (readers will doubtless know that for decades Kilgour has dressed some of Hollywood’s finest), this cocktail jacket has clean shoulders a gently supressed waist and subtle asymmetric quarters, yielding a remarkably different and dynamic silhouette that we can’t help but lust after. £3,000.00, 5 Savile Row, London W1S 3PE.

It doesn’t take a rocket scientist – or an aeronautical engineer – to realise that the utilitarian look is here to stay. Beams’ sturdy, structured flight shirt pays homage to the military origins of the style, aptly named after Steve McQueen’s character Buzz Rickson in The War Lover (1961). In a versatile shade of olive, the heavy wool flannel shirting offers warmth and texture, and will go with just about anything you should choose to pair it with – we recommend wearing fully buttoned over vintage jeans for the rough-and-ready look, or open over a plain white T-shirt for a more relaxed aesthetic. Raised seams and bellows pockets add to the authenticity of the design, and one can’t help but fall for the long pointed collar, a courteous nod to the formal codes of military dress. £156.00, www.beams.co.jp.

One of the inevitable joys of the onset of autumn is the welcoming crunch of leaves underfoot, and the rich tones of burned orange and saffron that are so deliciously abundant at this time of year. Gieves & Hawkes has perfectly captured that sense of anticipation with its stunning double-breasted jacquard silk evening jacket in the Autumn/Winter ‘16 collection. Its copper tones and floral design are both subtly complex and intriguing, commanding attention and admiration from onlookers wherever you may go. And it will most certainly take you places – from box seats at the theatre to dinner and cigars at the Bulgari, this effortless demonstration of some of Savile Row’s finest tailoring is so potent that you may find yourself throwing parties just so you can show it off. £2,195.00, online soon at www.gievesandhawkes.com.