The Finest Watches of Baselworld 2016

Few watch brands do chronographs quite like Zenith. This latest model is an update on the hugely popular El Primero 36,000 VPH, which was originally unveiled at Baselworld 2013, and features an entirely new dial design. The anthracite colour of the dial is bettered by the stunning ‘brushed engine’ stripes running through it, as well as the sporty red accents of the hands, all of which are complemented by the signature Zenith tri-colour sub-dials. This combines to create a watch that is instantly recognisable as a classic Zenith chronograph, yet it remains entirely modern through its in-house, high-beating movement. The perforated leather rally strap is a nice touch. too. www.zenith-watches.com

Tudor's Black Bay diver's watch was first introduced in 2012 and garnered plenty of fanfare. It originally came with either red or blue accents, and for many it was the more affordable, more charming alternative to the fabled Rolex Submariner (the new models at least), the flagship diver of Tudor's parent company. Since their inception in 1946, Tudor has always been well-priced, but it's their vintage-inspired design over the last few years that have really captured imaginations, and with the new Black Bay Bronze this is only set to increase. Bronze is a daring case material for any watch brand, yet it lends an exotic feel to the utilitarian Black Bay, a watch that's been praised for its humble, uncomplicated design. And let's not forget that bronze is the chosen material for diving helmets and boat propellers. It'll oxidise over time, giving each watch a unique patina, which'll undoubtedly appeal to the connessieur, and the 3-6-9 dial is another potential selling point. Bigger news though is the fact that Tudor have blessed it with an in-house movement, a first for a Black Bay and signalling the vertically integrated future of the thriving brand... www.tudorwatch.com

...And Tudor haven't stopped there, releasing an all-black PVD-coated Black Bay in the more welcomed 41mm case size. This too gets the in-house movement and chronometer certification, which is proudly displayed on the dial alongside a lovely red (!) depth rating. Along with the other new Black Bays though, it's lost the charming curved text of the first-gen watch, as well as the 'rose' logo at 12 o'clock in place of Tudor's less pretty 'shield'... www.tudorwatch.com

...Where Tudor have absolutely nailed it though is with the Black Bay 36. Whilst somewhat overshadowed by its black and bronze siblings, the 36 is damn near perfect. For starters, The Rake must commend Tudor for releasing a sports watch with a 36mm case size when most are pushing 42mm and upwards; it's a bold and brilliant move. This watch will undoubtedly appeal to vintage lovers due to its size but also its wonderfully simple dial, complete with subtly over-sized applied hour markers. The lack of a diving bezel is an interesting move, and one that makes it more versatile - it could be really dressed up with the right strap. The proportions with this thing are spot on too, and speaking of straps it comes on either distressed leather or an integrated steel bracelet. Bravo, tudor. www.tudorwatch.com

It's not often that records are broken in watchmaking, but with this watch Bvlgari have created the world's thinnest minute repeater to date. Its movement, caliber BVL 362 measures just 3.12mm and it's housed within a wonderfully technical yet unassuming case. The Rake's founder, Wei Koh, is a big fan, “this is the best watch I’ve seen so far this year. The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is amazing, and it’s the perfect embodiment of the type of watch people want today, which is technically incredibly ambitious but discreet, and charmingly discreet because you keep all the authenticity and all that innovation for yourself. It is to me the watch of the fair”. www.bulgari.com

Few watch brands could cause such hysteria with a new release so similar to its previous generation as Rolex. The 2016 Cosmograph Daytona is essentially the same watch as last year’s, yet with the addition of a new black Cerachrom bezel. Oh, and the white dialled watch features black snailed counters rather than silver. The bezel transforms the watch however, creating a look reminiscent of vintage Daytonas dating back to the original in 1965. Made from Rolex’s virtually indestructible Cerachrom material, the bezel won’t scratch and its impervious to UV rays, meaning that unlike vintage models it won’t develop a patina over time. It will undoubtedly appreciate though, so snap one up if you can. www.rolex.com

Patek's famed Nautilus celebrates its 40th anniversary this year, but no releases have been unveiled at Baselworld. Instead, inside sources note that we can expect some news come October. In the meantime Patek launched a series of new timepieces including this rather special World Time Chronograph. For such a busy dial, its 39.5mm white gold case is an impressive feat; it manages to remain highly legible and easy to navigate. The all blue colour scheme is particularly dashing and one of the finest examples we’ve seen of the fair, of which there are many. www.patek.com

It’s hard to keep up with the many iterations of Omega’s Speedmaster, the legendary chronograph that was the first watch on the Moon. The CK2998 may well be the most aesthetically pleasing in recent memory though, with its navy-on-white panda dial and matching blue leather strap. Inspired by the original CK2998, one of the most highly sought-after vintage Speedmasters, it boasts a number of details that make Speedy enthusiasts weak at the knees. Its dauphine-style hands, present on all sub-dials are particularly attractive, as is the lollipop seconds hand that glides effortlessly around the blue outer minutes track. The standard crown guards are also missing, which is a nice touch giving the watch a cleaner, vintage feel in line with the original. The case size is 39.7mm too. It's a faithful homage, indeed. www.omegawatches.com

In light of the highly contemporary Tag Heuer releases of late, particularly their controversial foray into the 'connected' world, this Heritage Monza is incredibly refreshing. Tag Heuer has some incredibly beautiful chronographs in their historical roster, so it's always cool to see a well-executed re-issue or two. This one has been launched to mark forty years of the Monza and is directly inspired by the original of 1976, which was conceived as a gift to the Ferrari Formula One team who won the driver's championship the year previously with Niki Lauda at the wheel. The watch itself shares attributes with the original, including pulsometer and tachymeter scales, the 'Heuer' logo and the much-loved black and red colour scheme. www.tagheuer.co.uk

For their second collaboration, Hublot and Lapo Elkann’s Italia Independent have created a new Big Bang Unico, available in three rakish camouflage colour ways; blue, black and green. Combining carbon fibre and Texalium, a ‘glass fibre fabric with an aluminium coating on its surface’, the watch is extremely light and durable. The 45mm chronograph features a ‘one click’ interchangeable bracelet, allowing wearers to switch out a chino cotton strap for the high-performance SuperFabric one, offering impressive versatility. www.hublot.com/en

This stunning Breguet is worth mentioning for its dial alone. It’s a masterclass of subtlety and texture with its multitude of different finishings. The centre of the 18k white gold dial has been machine turned in Breguet’s signature guilloche pattern, the outer rings have been brushed and the seconds sub-register boast a checkerboard guilloche pattern, blessing the timepiece with immense elegance and charm. www.breguet.com

The Fifty Fathoms was widely credited as being the first modern diving watch, a feat that Blancpain is particularly proud of. They are rather protective of this series of watches, which is why it’s always worth noting when a new edition is released, such as this version finished in plasma grey ceramic. Falling in line with the huge trend that is all-blue watches, Blancpain have created a seemingly uncomplicated but beautiful update on the fabled Fifty Fathoms design with its sunburst dial, subtle date window and highly legible, SuperLuminova-filled hour markers. www.blancpain.com