Boot season is still upon us. The spring showers aren’t about to turn any time soon, which does at least mean we get to lace up our loyal weather beating comrades on a regular basis. We’ve narrowed down ten pairs of boots from the finest shoemakers in the land, so if you’re looking to expand this important aspect of your wardrobe, look no further.
Style
Treading Water: Boots to Beat Spring Showers
Boots come in all shapes and sizes, and whittling down the styles worth investing in can be a time consuming process but, as always, The Rake is here to help.
Words Charlie Thomas
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J.M. Weston Jodhpur Boots
Although originally designed to be worn whilst riding a horse, Jodhpurs today represent the boot at its most elegant. This pair by J.M. Weston are finished in black box calf leather and feature the trademark ankle strap that’s synonymous with the Jodhpur, as well as a clean, sculpted toe that will sit beautifully under a pair of tailored trousers. Like its Chelsea boot cousin though, these Jodhpur boots are the perfect accompaniment to a pair of black jeans - just give the hem an extra roll to show off the buckle. £740.00, www.jmweston.fr.
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Edward Green Galway Boots
One of England’s very best shoemakers, Edward Green’s Galway boot has been in production since the 1930s, at a time when they outfitted officers of the British military. It has long since transcended its militaristic origins though, especially when made from Italian mink suede such as this example. Incredibly supple and soft to the touch, the chocolate suede will patina gracefully over time, and the sturdy Dainite rubber soles will ensure you can stride through city or country in complete confidence. £1025.00, www.edwardgreen.com.
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Bodileys Westminster Balmoral Boots
Balmoral boots tend to be made from a combination of leather and suede and are often thought of as the most formal of boot styles. Bodileys take maintains the formality but is crafted from a deeply burnished dark brown calf leather, delivering a handsome look reminiscent of the Victorian era the boots hail from. They’re Goodyear-welted and handmade in Northampton, and are an example of the creativity that can hail from independent, family-run shoemakers. Wear them to the office in place of your Oxfords throughout winter, or with cuffed jeans until it becomes too hot not to. £360.00, www.bodileys.com.
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Gaziano & Girling Urban Commando Boot
A collaboration between Gaziano & Girling and The Rake, the Urban Commando boots combine the former’s super slim ‘deco’ last with a virtually indestructible rubber commando sole. This never-done-before feat produces a boot with a staggeringly elegant silhouette, with G&G’s famous sculpted waist, yet one that laughs in the face of poor weather with its chunky rubber sole. Made from mahogany pebble-grain French alpine leather and with antique brass speed hooks, these are perhaps the most innovative pair of boots one can buy. £1,400.00, www.TheRake.com.
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Viberg Boondocker Suede Boots
Viberg’s Boondocker boots are directly inspired by the USN or N-1 Field Shoe, which were standard issue to US navy personnel during WWII. Made from Horween’s original natural aniline Chromexel ‘roughout’ leather, which is both soft and durable, it features a corded rubber sole, brown painted eyelets an unstructured toe and a customised version of Viberg’s Service Boot pattern, all in attempt to stay as close to the original boots possible. £620.00, www.mrporter.com.
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R.M. Williams Signature Craftsman Chelsea Boots
R.M. Williams’ Craftsman model is the finest ready-to-wear Chelsea boot in the land. Made from a single piece of durable leather, the Signature is the creme of the Craftsman’s crop, with each pair made by the hands of a single shoemaker - you can tell because each cherry red sole is hand-signed and features a brass plaque to signify it. With an imperishable Goodyear-welted sole and the signature chiselled toe that R.M. Williams are well known for, they blend the rugged nature of Australia with the suavity of Serge Gainsbourg, and will last you a lifetime. £700.00, www.rmwilliams.com.au
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John Lobb Combe Boots
Under the helm of Paula Gerbase, John Lobb boasts a range of innovative, stylish shoes that combine expert build construction with sophisticated attention to detail. These Combe boots are a case in point, taking the humble chukka boots into new formal territory thanks to the addition of a razor-sharp buckle across the ankle. Made from a heavyweight bordeaux calf leather and with a storm welt for added water resistance, these will work within a wide range of social contexts and demonstrate John Lobb’s ability to produce some of the most understated contemporary shoes today. £1,245.00, www.johnlobb.com.
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Herring Langdale Brogue Boots
Herring’s Langdale is a wingtip boot of the sturdiest proportions. Made in Northampton from a deep mahogany grain leather and with a Daintite rubber sole and storm welt, they’ll perform exceptionally against foul weather and make a case for being perhaps the ultimate, off-duty weekend shoes. Simply pair them with jeans and a chunky fisherman’s jumper and you’re good to go. £325.00, www.herringshoes.co.uk.
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Hutton Type 01 Desert Boots
When Hutton went about re-establishing their brand in 2015, the sole aim was to make desert boots the way they used to be made. This meant sourcing quality materials, including natural un-dyed plantation crepe for the soles, and turning to a small family run factory in Italy that used to make crepe soled boots back in the 1960s. Reacting against mass-produced footwear, which invariably reduces quality, Hutton desert boots are made in limited runs only, and their classic silhouette and top-notch build will ensure the 100 individually numbered pairs of Sahara Sand models (pictured above) will sell out soon enough. £135.00, shop.huttonboots.com.
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Crockett & Jones Skye Brogue Boots
Military inspired boots were especially popular at the AW17 menswear shows in London, Milan and Paris, with brands as diverse as Oliver Spencer, Berluti and Hermes making use of black, chunky footwear. Crockett & Jones isn’t known for their fashion credentials, but if you’re looking to add such a boot to your collection, this is the way to go. The venerable Northampton shoemaker make lifetime investments such as these full brogue derby boots made from back calf leather that will polish up to a military shine year after year. £475.00, www.crockettandjones.com.
crockett & jones, edward green, Footwear, Gaziano & Girling, jm weston, john lobb, Luxury, Rakish, RM Williams, Vilberg
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